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Thread: Best Shocks?

  1. #26
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    Question to KWiK or other Guys with Koni Sport externally adjustable damper

    So, yesterday I've installed H&R spring and this new Koni damper. I've still to appreciate the new ride also because new alignement has still to be done (tomorrow) at the moment I can only verify that the car turn like a train on the rail and the confort of old elegance set-up is loose but hey this is the downface of the game

    Please how do you keep the koni set-up? I know this is a personal choice but I have still to realize and your info is really usefull for me.

    Do I have to start from the fully un-screwed position (that should be the less confortable one) and than turn clockwise to increase confort (and decrease the stability)?

    How do you personally keep: rear stiffer than front? How many turns (from the full un-screwed position I refer).

    Hoping to be clear I thank you a lot.


  2. #27
    I have mine set at 1.5 turns. That's a little past the mid point toward the stiff side. Front/Rear are set the same.
    1999 C43 - Carlsson 18\" 1/6 Diamond... Vogtland Springs ... Koni Ext. Adjustable... Clears...

  3. #28
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    Originally posted by KWiK
    I have mine set at 1.5 turns. That's a little past the mid point toward the stiff side. Front/Rear are set the same.
    please confirm me you consider 1.5 turns clockwise FROM the full UNSCREWED position.



    actually the mechanic set only half a turn for all (front and rear). And I feel a little bit exaggerated (too hard). So I should turn clockwize a further 1.0 turn.
    I thank you really a lot.

    Marco

  4. #29
    Clockwise = soft
    Counter-Clockwise = hard

    Starting at full soft, I turned 1.5 turns counter-clockwise for my settings.

    If you want a more comfortable ride, turn the knob clockwise.
    1999 C43 - Carlsson 18\" 1/6 Diamond... Vogtland Springs ... Koni Ext. Adjustable... Clears...

  5. #30
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    Originally posted by KWiK
    Clockwise = soft
    Counter-Clockwise = hard

    Starting at full soft, I turned 1.5 turns counter-clockwise for my settings.

    If you want a more comfortable ride, turn the knob clockwise.
    Ok it seems me it's only a matter of understanding.

    as reference for the setting you consider the fully clockwise position (the softer), since my mechanic told me that I have to refer to the full hard position i.e. the fully counter-clockwise position, and than I have to turn clockwise, to increase the confort.

    Please do you know how many turns are necessary form one extreme position to the opposite one? Since I want to adjust the ride I hope that all the four damper (or at least the same pair) are identical.

    I thank you really a lot for your help


  6. #31
    I don't remember how many turns from full soft to full hard. I would suggest you set it at full soft first to see if you like it. Full soft will be harder than stock
    1999 C43 - Carlsson 18\" 1/6 Diamond... Vogtland Springs ... Koni Ext. Adjustable... Clears...

  7. #32
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    Originally posted by KWiK
    I don't remember how many turns from full soft to full hard. I would suggest you set it at full soft first to see if you like it. Full soft will be harder than stock
    Ok thanks again. I'm sure as you suggest that full soft will be, in any case, quite harder than stock.

    Anyway, I hope that all the 4 damper will have the identical number of turn (from soft to hard I refer).

    Thanks

  8. #33
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    Done yesterday the aligment, after the lowering, the man said me he have setted the damper hardening all 4 to the max stiff (counter-clockwise) and than decrease only of 1/2 turn

    It seems me really too much, considering I came from an elegance set-up. As I can I modify.

    Further, as far as aligment this are the value thay have adjusted now:
    FRONT
    caster sx 5°34' dx 5°36'
    camber sx -1°10' dx -1°32'
    toe sx 1.4 dx 1.6

    REAR
    camber sx -1°56' dx -2°00'
    toe sx 1.9 dx 2.3

    Now I'm looking on the site to verify if this value are more or less similar to other experience but I'm quite concerned of the rear camber, is it correct that to adjust is necessary a special kit?

    After lowering (H&R spring) the rear tires are quite angled and not vertical to the ground as before. Is this common? and In particular acceptable?

    Thanks a lot for your help and, please be informed that I can return on the forum after the Holiday, I wish to all of you my best Merry Christmas and a happy New Year.

    Hi

  9. #34
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    Originally posted by KWiK
    Clockwise = soft
    Counter-Clockwise = hard

    Starting at full soft, I turned 1.5 turns counter-clockwise for my settings.

    If you want a more comfortable ride, turn the knob clockwise.
    Dear KWik, during my holiday I tried to manage some different set-up, because ride was really tto hard, as made by the shop.

    I discovered that in the front I have only a range of 1.5 turns from the softer to the harder set-up.

    At the rear I've only 1 turn.

    This should be different than you...at least as far as the rear set-up (since you told 1.5 turns for each damper).

    In any case the softer set-up seems me quite harder respect factory suspension.

    Please I'll appreciate your comments.

    Hi

  10. #35
    yes, the Koni at full soft is still more firm than stock. That's a good thing
    1999 C43 - Carlsson 18\" 1/6 Diamond... Vogtland Springs ... Koni Ext. Adjustable... Clears...

  11. #36
    1998k,

    I make custom camber arms for the rear to fix the excessive camber. But at this point I would drive your car for some time to see if the new settings are going to cause faster wear rates to your rear tires.

    If you just can't live with the appearance of the rear tires cambered to -2 degrees, well then I understand that too.

    The camber arms are of the highest level of construction and there are many people on this board that have them.

    Jeff
    1999 C43 Obsidian Black; Penske Remote Adjustable Shocks; Adjustable Spring Perches; SSR Comp Wheels, 9.5 & 9.5x17\"; Custom 31.75mm front & 19mm rear swaybar; Ported Manifold; Limited Slip Differential, Headers and race Cats, Other Stuff

  12. #37
    Senior Member 97Brabus's Avatar
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    OK, I have a question about Bilstein Sports versus Brabus shocks. Any real difference? I have the Bilsteins but I saw some Brabus rear shocks on Ebay and I was considering swapping them out. Thoughts?
    97 Brabus C280 Sport


  13. #38
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    Originally posted by KWiK
    yes, the Koni at full soft is still more firm than stock. That's a good thing
    Ok but please do you confirm me that you have more possibilities than 1.5 total turns, in particolar at rear (where I have only 1.o turn):bunny:

    thanks

  14. #39
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    Originally posted by speedybenz
    1998k,

    I make custom camber arms for the rear to fix the excessive camber. But at this point I would drive your car for some time to see if the new settings are going to cause faster wear rates to your rear tires.

    If you just can't live with the appearance of the rear tires cambered to -2 degrees, well then I understand that too.

    The camber arms are of the highest level of construction and there are many people on this board that have them.

    Jeff
    Thanks for the info speedybenz. I keep your suggestion also because I'd like to verify the tires wear and the final suspension value (toe, camber) after a necessary adjustment.

    Please but I'm wondering how are the factory AMG or sport set up by Mercedes, since they are lowered and probably I've never realized if also those have increased negative camber?

    Further, I'm satisfied with H&R and Koni but the confort is really another think respect the elegance set-up. It's really a matter of knock and bump over any little pothole...also with koni at softer position

    I'll consider your offer but you also have to realize that being in the other continent.... and in any case I'd like to find a kit directly at the shop that performed the job and where I'd like to re-verify the aligment. Please in any case could you make me an offer? Is it standard for any W202 (since mine is a C200 kompressor)?

    thanks

    Hi

    PS: last thing, but front camber is factory adjustable or do I need also a suitable kit?

  15. #40
    1999k,

    It seems that -1.5 to -2.0 degrees on the rear camber is about the limit for good tire wear. Some tires and cars will be fine others will exihibt excessive tire wear rates. -2.0 degree on the rear is very good for handling and if you drive hard you may find that setting to be very likeable.

    The front camber is slightly adjustable with the camber/castor bolts that Mercedes sells for our W202's. These will allow you to change the settings by about -/+ 0.5 degree's.

    Given you location, the birth country of Valentino Rossi I can most likely work out something to help offset the shipping costs.

    Jeff
    speedyafm2@aol.com
    1999 C43 Obsidian Black; Penske Remote Adjustable Shocks; Adjustable Spring Perches; SSR Comp Wheels, 9.5 & 9.5x17\"; Custom 31.75mm front & 19mm rear swaybar; Ported Manifold; Limited Slip Differential, Headers and race Cats, Other Stuff

  16. #41
    Senior Member 97Brabus's Avatar
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    Originally posted by 1998K
    Thanks for the info speedybenz. I keep your suggestion also because I'd like to verify the tires wear and the final suspension value (toe, camber) after a necessary adjustment.
    Isn't toe only a setting for the front? If I understand correctly speedybenz, aren't your arms for the rear only?

    P.S. I am thinking about getting a set since I am currently spending $500 a year on rear S03's. On that note, do you recommend a less expensive tire with similar dry performance with better wet/ice performance. I live in Seattle so that's a must especially in the winter! My ride is out of commission any time there's ice or snow...like now. Gotta rock the 85 S-10...what!!! :beard:
    97 Brabus C280 Sport


  17. #42
    Originally posted by 97Brabus
    Isn't toe only a setting for the front?
    No, your rear wheels can be toed in or out as well, however most of the time the toe of one set of wheels (front or rear) will be mirrored by the other set. That is, if your fronts are significantly toed in, you rears will want to become more toed out.
    If you can thread the needle... and if your drive can lead to Pole Position today, history may hold a place for you tomorrow.

    search. think. do. post.

  18. #43
    The toe setting can be set for both the front and the rear using just the stock MB suspension pieces.

    And yes my speedybenz camber arms are only for the rear.

    Jeff
    1999 C43 Obsidian Black; Penske Remote Adjustable Shocks; Adjustable Spring Perches; SSR Comp Wheels, 9.5 & 9.5x17\"; Custom 31.75mm front & 19mm rear swaybar; Ported Manifold; Limited Slip Differential, Headers and race Cats, Other Stuff

  19. #44
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    so what did you make for the front, I thought you were going to make front camber arms, or a sway bar of some sort?
    97 C280 RIP 09-14-07 killed by a reckless rice rocket jetta (I just try and remember the good times)

    ***C43***

    Clear Corners, ss oil filter, avantgrade grill, sport pedals, clk door pins

  20. #45
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    Originally posted by 1998K
    Ok but please do you confirm me that you have more possibilities than 1.5 total turns, in particolar at rear (where I have only 1.o turn):bunny:

    thanks
    up to KWiK

    please

  21. #46
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    Originally posted by speedybenz
    1999k,

    It seems that -1.5 to -2.0 degrees on the rear camber is about the limit for good tire wear. Some tires and cars will be fine others will exihibt excessive tire wear rates. -2.0 degree on the rear is very good for handling and if you drive hard you may find that setting to be very likeable.

    The front camber is slightly adjustable with the camber/castor bolts that Mercedes sells for our W202's. These will allow you to change the settings by about -/+ 0.5 degree's.

    Given you location, the birth country of Valentino Rossi I can most likely work out something to help offset the shipping costs.

    Jeff
    speedyafm2@aol.com
    Thanks a lot speedybenz, I'll send you an e-mail. But further could you please post a pic of this rear camber kit that if I'm not wrong you have already produced.

    It should be good to all of us.

    Thanks in advance.

  22. #47
    1999k,

    Below is the pic you asked for. I think I already said this but there are some 60 to 70 pairs of these Camber Arms on all sorts of Mercedes Benz chassis. So far they seem to perform very well with no increase in noise.

    1999 C43 Obsidian Black; Penske Remote Adjustable Shocks; Adjustable Spring Perches; SSR Comp Wheels, 9.5 & 9.5x17\"; Custom 31.75mm front & 19mm rear swaybar; Ported Manifold; Limited Slip Differential, Headers and race Cats, Other Stuff

  23. #48
    Originally posted by speedybenz
    Ashkan,
    For $5000 I will make you the setup I run, but wth softer springs more in tune with street use.
    You will get ... [snip]
    If you want the best and are willing to pay the cost this is it. Nothing else you can buy will match this setup.
    Jeff
    Originally posted by Renn 208
    forget what nokia said...go with the speedybenz setup. Jeff makes great stuff, and you should put that on your car. You will never find a better handling car period. And even more, you'll be helping out a fellow member instead of giving your money to some internet site.
    Ashkan, don't want to 'jack your thread so I'll be providing more detail in a new post ... Your original question was "Best Shocks?" (well obviously, it's more then just the shocks) If you're like me and were on the fence with what suspension modification you wanted to do, I have to agree, go with the speedybenz suspension!

    I live on the east coast and just came back yesterday from the west coast where I went to specifically visit speedybenz about his car's suspension mods and have a ride in his C43 before I took the plunge to buy his setup for my car. Oh my frell'n [or is it now frack'n] god! ...as close to perfection as the seat of my pants can detect. Unbelievable balance and never ending grip. I just kept say'n "yep, my C43 would have pushed into that 6' gully along side of the road ... yep my car sure can't do that ...Woe, niiiice!".

    Ya, $5K is a lot of money ... but Jeff isn't exaggerating ... "Nothing else you can buy will match this setup." I'll post more in a new thread. Just know, I'm buy'n it!

    Renn ; Jeff told me he had his summer "slicks" on the car when he took you for a ride and was peaking out about 10mph faster with you then he was going with me ... woe'a ... nice.

    So just how kewl was that ride? :banana: I'm sold!

    There was noone in front of us the whole 9 miles out ... just two cars in the way coming back, but weren't there for long. I sure won't forget it. ...Wish I had a video camera with me to share with others. Oh man, if I only had that road near me.

  24. #49
    yeah, there's really nothing to compare the ride to...esp how well he manages all that weight. An Elise might be built up better from the start, but it's just amazing to see what Jeff can do with 4 tires and a steering wheel.

    Another thing to keep in mind though is that the driver has a huuuuuuuuuuge effect on the car, and skillz are just as important to develop as the suspension.

    And Fujiwara ain't got nothin on speedy benz and his akagi.
    If you can thread the needle... and if your drive can lead to Pole Position today, history may hold a place for you tomorrow.

    search. think. do. post.

  25. #50
    Originally posted by Renn 208
    Another thing to keep in mind though is that the driver has a huuuuuuuuuuge effect on the car, and skillz are just as important to develop as the suspension.
    :werd: You said it. He is both an artist and a professional in both his mechanical engineering ability as well as driving skills [you gotta figure there's a reason he's got a garage full of trophys ]

    And Fujiwara ain't got nothin on speedy benz and his akagi.
    err ... huh? <grin> I'm obvioulsy missing the back-story to something.

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