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Thread: Custom intake fabrication begins.. W202 M111

  1. #51
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    I hope you take many many pictures of everything

    I really look forward to do this

    Etienne
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  2. #52
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    I should have my TRUST IC today so will mount it all next week and take lots of pics including one of the old system virses the new...
    Im reluctant to say wheather all this work will add any HP,maybe loose it!!...but it will sound and look good

    Regards,
    Paul
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  3. #53
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    thats lookin really nice man.. cant wait to see the next bunch of pics. hurry!!!!

    as for the whole set up you are doing.. what do you mean the bypass valve will now vent through the guard??.. what guard?
    so instead of boost pressure venting back into the intake it will vent to atmosphere..right?

    I had thought about eliminating the stock bypass valve and go for an aftermarket bypass valve, but the problem with that is the check engine light would then be on no doubt. is there a way to trick the computer to thinking the valve is still there? any electronics guru's here?
    and I dont know how the aftermarket valve would fair out in place of the factory valve. if it would work the same, if I would run into any driveability problems.
    so for now Im sticking with the stock set up but making the "cold air intake" but now youve got me thinking about moving the stock bypass valve slightly and running another filter on it.

    and about the IC you are doing.. is it larger than stock?.. will it fit right into place? and are you running larger diameter pipe through the whole intake system with nice full bends in the pipes and not squashed down bends like factory?
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  4. #54
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    Originally posted by 23K
    Il try get a pic but all that is under the four hex screws is the butterfly valve....
    its all very nicely machined
    thanks a lot 23K, You are really nice. Does the butterfly valve come a bit dirty? In that case I'm wondering to dismount it and clean?

    Do you suggest this?

    Thanks again

  5. #55
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    Thanks Man...
    As for the VDO bypass it will now be positioned out of sight in the front gaurd just before the IC,Boost will vent into the atmosphere,
    I cant see any need to vent hot air back into the intake other than reducing noise

    The biggest problem i can think of with changing the bypass with a BOV is they are totally different style valves...
    ie:the bov relies on the difference in manifold vaccum virses boost...which may cause trouble when the SC cluth disengages.
    Where as the VDO bypass is controlled independantly by the computer,which opens it when it needs to be open etc...

    The IC is larger than stock...the core size is 600x187x76,theres a pic of it on cardomain.Its about as wide as the front grill,so it looks great...
    I had to cut off the two bottom nuts that hold on the bumper and will have to grind a small portion of the front impact bar join to make it all fit snug...No major
    The TRUST IC kit I have was made for toyota altezza so it came with heaps of alloy piping and almost all of it fitted where i wanted it to(Lucky Huh)
    The piping is only slightly bigger than factory with nice mandrel alloy bends...its about 50mm,
    Ideally the pressure side should start of small and gradually get bigger all the way to the throttle...
    I hope the new system does not give too much lag due to the bigger IC and piping....and if it does than it better give good results it the higher rev range!!

    When I have the system complete i will take pics of it external to the engine bay alongside the old system for comparisan.
    I also have a factory dyno run to compare later on...

    Regards,
    Paul
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  6. #56
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    Originally posted by 1998K
    thanks a lot 23K, You are really nice. Does the butterfly valve come a bit dirty? In that case I'm wondering to dismount it and clean?

    Do you suggest this?

    Thanks again
    Thanks 1998K,mine was very clean,I guess it all depends on how much oil comes out of the oil seperator...
    Its very easy to check,just remove the four hex screws and hose clamp,just be careful not to drop anything down the hole

    Regards,
    Paul
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  7. #57
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    As for an aftermarket bypass valve over a BOV.. how about the bypass valve by vortech..
    or
    putting one of those in place of the stock bypass valve? or this diverter valve by Hyperboost..

    would these work?.. but there still would be the problem of the check engine light on with the stock one not connected.. I guess venting the stock bypass valve to atmosphere instead of back into the intake would give me the sound Im looking for anyway?!!

    How did you decide on the IC that was meant for the Altezza?? Do you have a web address for the Trust site?? I can seem to find them anywhere.
    yeh it is lucky that it fits with only some minor mods, I was wondering what you would have to cut to make proper mandrel bent pipe fit in those tight spaces!! I am interested in doing an IC too, but also wonder if the larger diameter pipe and larger IC would take away from the boost at all?

    how thick is that aluminium you used to make the flanges that ount to the supercharger? did you TIG it yourself?

    Keep us all up to date with your mods.. I would like to see more of what you are doing.
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  8. #58
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    It reminds me of the day i bought $600 BLITZ BOV to put on my EVO3....
    afterwords my boost always spiked,(the factory one let air slip)
    my engine didnt idle as well,(because it didnt open at idle as much as the factory item)
    also the engine was not as smooth between gear changes(because it seemed to cause compessor surge)
    and after a while I got sick of the noise,It was cool for a while.
    so i changed back to Factor BOV and all was smooth.

    Im guessing the VDO venting into the air will make some noise,And i hope it isnt to loud,I would like to hear it though

    As far as high performance Jap parts i have used
    www.Takakaira.co.jp online ordering for 3 years now...very relieable!!,i have spent about 15K with them.they are cheaper.
    the trust kit i have cost $1550NZD but usually cost $1850 and it was delivered to my door. it all depends on you countries import tax!!iv heard its massive in some areas!...

    once you have removed the factory system there is quit alot of room...more than i have had previously
    the flanges i have are 5mm...
    I constucted all parts then took them in to a alloy big manufacturing plant for one of the boys too weld them for me...I do stainless but not aluminum...it can be trickyespecially when you spend so much time constructing the parts i couldn't bear to blw big holes in it all!! .

    Will post more pics as i progress man...

    Regards,
    Paul
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  9. #59
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    oh and i guess there will be a very small delay in boost response
    down low in the rev range due to piping and IC sizing,but I hope this is made up for further on in the revs...
    Guess il know when shes on the rollers next
    Regards,
    Paul
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  10. #60
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    Originally posted by 23K
    Thanks 1998K,mine was very clean,I guess it all depends on how much oil comes out of the oil seperator...
    Its very easy to check,just remove the four hex screws and hose clamp,just be careful not to drop anything down the hole

    Regards,
    Paul
    Hi again Paul, but the question is do you still have the oil separator? Do you suggest to put a suitable filter since, as it seems, the vapour oil come AFTER the air filter itself. Correct?

    Further do you know how that black box work? there are several pipes from the oil dipstick, the engine and also a small one from the kompressor (may be to stop at high rev/minute). really I'm still wondering how it operate, if a maintenance cleaning is requested and so and so...

    Thanks for any information

    Marco

  11. #61
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    23K: you want to vent your factory VDO bypass into the air?

    Will you put a cone filter at the end because you said the VDO was sucking air when the kompressor clutch was disengaged

    Etienne
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  12. #62
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    Originally posted by 1998K
    Hi again Paul, but the question is do you still have the oil separator? Do you suggest to put a suitable filter since, as it seems, the vapour oil come AFTER the air filter itself. Correct?

    Further do you know how that black box work? there are several pipes from the oil dipstick, the engine and also a small one from the kompressor (may be to stop at high rev/minute). really I'm still wondering how it operate, if a maintenance cleaning is requested and so and so...

    Thanks for any information

    Marco
    Hi,Im goin to replace the the factory seperator...mainly because i dont want to tap into the pressure side of the new SC piping,and it would be good to find a better looking one

    Im not totally sure how it works but I picked it up the other day and it looks like:
    Any oil venting from the valve cover vents into the box...
    when in the box it spirils to the centre then drops down back to the sump via the dipstick,and any air pressure is vented to the air filter box....and the only reason i can think of for the tapping of the SC is to provide airflow to stop blockages or build-up...

    Let me know if you find out any more about its workings...
    Regards,
    Paul
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  13. #63
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    Originally posted by MrSpace
    23K: you want to vent your factory VDO bypass into the air?

    Will you put a cone filter at the end because you said the VDO was sucking air when the kompressor clutch was disengaged

    Etienne
    Yes im just looking for a small K&N...should do the trick...
    also i think the VDO valve stays open when the engine is off,so it will be a must to get a filter...
    Regards,
    Paul
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  14. #64
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    Hey 1998K:Im pretty sure the factory seperator works quit well,have you checked wheather there is build-up through the system??,my system had very little build-up if any...

    Regards,
    Paul
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  15. #65
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    Hey 23K:
    Are those flanges you made for the supercharger to hold the intake on with made from scratch or are they the stock flanges modified?

    I am curious to know that with the replacement intercooler and intercooler pipe, if there be any boost drop at all? or will it just be a lack of boost at lower rpm's until it is built back up?
    I think renntech makes an intercooler for the W202.. did you look into that at all?
    Im looking into an intercooler myself, but I dont think there will be any hp gains from doing this mod. with a larger intercooler you may slightly lower the air charge temp, but I just dont see it happening for some reason.. I think we need to look into water injection or some sort of co2 system to spray on the intercooler itself to cool the air going through it.

    Do you know how many cfm's the stock intercooler flows and how much the new one you are modifying to fit flows?

    have you done a pulley kit and chip at all on your motor? if so what tuner?
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  16. #66
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    Originally posted by 23K
    Hey 1998K:Im pretty sure the factory seperator works quit well,have you checked wheather there is build-up through the system??,my system had very little build-up if any...

    Regards,
    Paul
    Hi Paul, since I'm not so skilful as you seems me, I've not any idea how to open that box to check dirt and, in case, clean.
    I have removed the pipes but could not be able to open anything.
    Please how do you perform this?

    I want to open that black plastic box, is it possible?

    Besides about your explanation on the system, it seems me the most probable: air box (and relevant pipe) to provide the necessay vacuum, oil dipstick to provide the return line to the sump. The small pipe to the SC may be as you suggested or, may be, to close (or open) any internal valve into the separator? So the system open (or close?) over 2000rev/min (when factory SC will engage if I'm not wrong).

    You are the only one that I've found interested in this device

    Hi

    Marco

  17. #67
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    to 23K

    Dear Paul please be informed that referring to the other post you were repling me (bumper cutting in way of rear exhaust), I try several times and in several ways, to open that tread but, due to strange problem in my PC or system, I really can't open and read you reply. Sorry

  18. #68
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    Originally posted by SLAMMED_C
    Hey 23K:
    Are those flanges you made for the supercharger to hold the intake on with made from scratch or are they the stock flanges modified?

    I am curious to know that with the replacement intercooler and intercooler pipe, if there be any boost drop at all? or will it just be a lack of boost at lower rpm's until it is built back up?
    I think renntech makes an intercooler for the W202.. did you look into that at all?
    Im looking into an intercooler myself, but I dont think there will be any hp gains from doing this mod. with a larger intercooler you may slightly lower the air charge temp, but I just dont see it happening for some reason.. I think we need to look into water injection or some sort of co2 system to spray on the intercooler itself to cool the air going through it.

    Do you know how many cfm's the stock intercooler flows and how much the new one you are modifying to fit flows?

    have you done a pulley kit and chip at all on your motor? if so what tuner?
    Hey Man,yea those flanges are all custom made,i just picked up a sheet of 5mm and one of 2mm from down the road...

    I agree there will be a small loss down low in the rev range due to lag from bigger piping,IC etc...
    in my opinion,the factory system is only good enough for the 5-8psi our cars run(after 5000 RPM it gradually raises to 8 as the engine breaths less than the SC output)...
    and as you probley already know temperature rises at a huge rate as pressure rises...there maybe a gain above 5000...maybe not...
    the factory IC is also positioned so it doesn't get a great flow of air...not to mention the very poor IC tanks which can be seen when taken out!!.....
    The main reason i have replace the IC is that my next plan is to raise pressure...and when i raise pressure i want cooling to be adequit...
    not to mention the system should sound and look very nice,so it may not be a complete waste of time

    I haven't looked into any other intercoolers,(for a benz anyway)I already know Trust make a very fine job with a design for as less pressure drop as possible.
    also i wanted to make custom SC inlet and outlet so they probley wouldnt have fitted any aftermarket MB parts.

    the Trust kit also came with a window washer kit...whick i might use for a IC spray if i find time....

    I could have gone all the way and tested the temperature and flow of the factory system at verious parts but...but im kinda the one to say "if its factory replace it".... just luv custom stuff

    I checked your page man,and somewhere iv read there is no more kleeman kits....it would be nice to pick up a set of those pullys rather than me have to make them,but iv heard of other kits...

    Got the IC almost piped in this week,wanted to take pics but someones got the cam

    Regards,
    Paul
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  19. #69
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    Originally posted by 1998K
    Hi Paul, since I'm not so skilful as you seems me, I've not any idea how to open that box to check dirt and, in case, clean.
    I have removed the pipes but could not be able to open anything.
    Please how do you perform this?

    I want to open that black plastic box, is it possible?

    Besides about your explanation on the system, it seems me the most probable: air box (and relevant pipe) to provide the necessay vacuum, oil dipstick to provide the return line to the sump. The small pipe to the SC may be as you suggested or, may be, to close (or open) any internal valve into the separator? So the system open (or close?) over 2000rev/min (when factory SC will engage if I'm not wrong).

    You are the only one that I've found interested in this device

    Hi

    Marco
    Hi Marco,i had a look at the system today and are very sure the tapping off the SC is just to provide adequit airflow through the seperator...
    also the seperator cannot be opened...you may check if it is blocked buy blowing through it and blocking various ports to check flow...
    If you wish to clean it you may want to Run mineral turpentine through it(when its not on the car )
    over all I have not seen any of these blocked before...but i only see a minority.

    Regards,
    Paul
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  20. #70
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    get the ASP kit for your pulley

    then when you need mnore boost, change the SC pulley for a smaller one and you can then go as high as you want for boost

    you will probably have to remove the SC clutch then, but anyways if you put a vortech bypass valve you will be better to remove the clutch so the bypass always exits air and never enters it to the engine

    Etienne
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  21. #71
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    Originally posted by MrSpace
    get the ASP kit for your pulley

    then when you need mnore boost, change the SC pulley for a smaller one and you can then go as high as you want for boost

    you will probably have to remove the SC clutch then, but anyways if you put a vortech bypass valve you will be better to remove the clutch so the bypass always exits air and never enters it to the engine

    Etienne
    Hey etienne,
    Im pretty keen on retaining the clutch system for economy etc,
    and im not too keen on having a BOV goin all day...
    so i guess im not left with alot of options...
    need kleeman kit!!
    would you mind handing over yours slammed C ....

    regards,
    Paul
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  22. #72
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    PS,Posted more updated pics...http://www.cardomain.com/id/silver23K

    Regards,
    Paul
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  23. #73
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    Originally posted by 23K
    Hey etienne,
    Im pretty keen on retaining the clutch system for economy etc,
    and im not too keen on having a BOV goin all day...
    so i guess im not left with alot of options...
    need kleeman kit!!
    would you mind handing over yours slammed C ....

    regards,
    Paul
    well, you have two choice for more boost

    oversize the crank pulley or undersize the SC pulley.

    You have a maximum for oversizing the crank since after a little bit the belt won't pass because of the tensionners. My ASP pulley gives a little less boost than the Kleemann but is way cheaper.

    I'm pretty sure there is a way to reduce also the SC pulley and keep the SC clutch. That way, with changing the SC pulley size you can go as small as you want thus having as much boost as you'd like.

    Etienne
    I can resist everything except temptation

  24. #74
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    Etienne:
    Iv been thinking about machining the factory pully alittle smaller to see what happens...
    have you measured your old pully against your new one??if so how much smaller is the new one??
    there might be enough meat on the factory pully to get good boost....

    Regards,
    Paul
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  25. #75
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    would you mind handing over yours slammed C
    lol.. let me think about that, ummmmmm NO!! I was so lucky to find my Kleemann kit.. its not going out of my site!!

    and as for creating as much boost as you want... thats not true, there is a limit.. 11psi is about the max boost for the Eaton supercharger.. any more and your gonna overheat the bearing and destroy the charger. even at 11psi of boost the supercharger is slightly overspinning.
    I wouldnt recomment making the charger pulley smaller.. just the crank pulley larger. in order to do the smaller charger pulley you would have to eliminate the clutch.
    and machining the stock pulleys is a waste of time in my mind.. go with a kit or custom make crank pulley.

    that Trust kit is expensive!! I may go the route of a custom intercooler from turbonetics, not sure yet.. still have to fab some flanges to replace the rediculous looking stock supercharger inlet and outlet manifolds.. then do some more custom piping.
    are you able to make templates of the flanges you made? I cant really pull my car apart as I need to drive it every day, I would really appreciate it if you could make a paper template with some dimensions.


    You do nice work 23K, how do u manage to do all this work on your car.. dont you drive it??!! I wish I had another car.. then Id be able to progress more.
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    --18" SL55 AMG's--KW V2 Suspension--SLK55 Front and Rear Brake--Wiechers Braces--Custom GT28 Turbo--Custom 3" Exhaust--68mm Throttle body--450cc Injectors--Custom Intake Manifold--Custom liquid to air intercooler--C36 Rear--Brabus Front--

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