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Thread: Needing Advice: 94 C280

  1. #26
    Moderator Sulaco's Avatar
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    Well, since the posts were never recovered I'll try and remember what I posted.

    I took my car to Autozone and got it scanned.

    Codes 0304 and 1170(I think) came up.

    Hooray.

    I guess I'm just going to have to replace the wiring harness first.
    94 C280, 250k miles, 1999-2011 (gone, never forgotten)
    CURRENT:
    744 Silver 99 C43 AMG, 260k miles, 2011-
    040 Black 98 C43 AMG, 190k miles, 2013-

  2. #27
    Originally posted by Sulaco
    Well, since the posts were never recovered I'll try and remember what I posted.

    I took my car to Autozone and got it scanned.

    Codes 0304 and 1170(I think) came up.

    Hooray.

    I guess I'm just going to have to replace the wiring harness first.
    If you are gonna keep the car, your gonna have to do it anyway bro....

  3. #28
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    Originally posted by Sulaco
    I am very well aware of the wiring harness issue. But I don't have the means of replacing it. I know I can replace it myself but I am in college, I'm poor, and I never have time to work on it. Not to mention the fact that I am parked in campus parking and the tools required are hard to come by right now. This summer I'll get on it and see if I can replace it, but that's a while away.

    Secondly, all the sites that sell a wiring harness for my car, it lists 2 harnesses. I can't figure out which one to use...



    A 165602-
    F 135856-


    Which is me?
    The numbers are part of your VIN. They are the last 7 digits to be exact. It's simply a range of numbers. Your VIN won't match exactly.

  4. #29
    Moderator Sulaco's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Sulaco
    Neither of those figures are in my VIN. Not even close.
    Neither of those figures are in my VIN. Not even close.
    94 C280, 250k miles, 1999-2011 (gone, never forgotten)
    CURRENT:
    744 Silver 99 C43 AMG, 260k miles, 2011-
    040 Black 98 C43 AMG, 190k miles, 2013-

  5. #30
    Moderator Sulaco's Avatar
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    Bump.

    Pardon the long-winded post. This forum has made me eat, sleep, breath, and live my 202 over the past few weeks.

    I've been talking with JustDexter on AIM, and he's been a real big help. He helped me get over my complete stupidity about VIN ranges and parts--thanks man!

    Well, I never did get around to replacing O2, MAS, or Wiring Harness. I'm not sure if my MAS is out again. Listening to Nenad, I believe him when he tells me I need new O2 sensors. However, I know for a fact my wiring harness is on the brink. Whatever codes AZ is telling me (just 1170 now, 0304 hasn't shown up in a long time) could very easily be a direct result of my wiring harness screwing everything up. I did clean my MAS using rubbing alcohol/simple green as other guides online have shown--but that didn't help anything. Anyways, that's all a story I can't afford to finish. Stealership says my harness is $767 for new OEM. That's only $100 more than the impossibly hard to find used/aftermarket ones.

    Right now I'm concentrating on my notorious sunroof. I was wrong to say every part is broken. Only 1 part is broken. The passenger side angle has a pop-riveted guide that I can easily fix myself. But I think the main problem is all of the rubber guide jaws deteriorated. Upon disassembling and reassembling the entire sunroof over and over again, I discovered that the entire system relies on the glass being bolted in place AND all of the necessary rubber pieces to be in place in order for the system to maintain any form of strength and rigid structure. This entire time I've been taking my glass off, looking at all the parts just lying their loosely, and assuming that they all needed to be replaced. Well, I'm slowly learning that many of them don't need to be replaced--they just need the proper corresponding rubber and careful reassembly to make sure they all come together and grip just right.

    Let this be a message to ALL who fear their sunroof--it is NOT that hard. I've found surprisingly little on sunroof rebuild/repair throughout the forums I search. Well, I think I've got it mastered now (except for MAJOR issues like replacing the track/motor. problems I don't have). I've taken every piece out, straightened all the warped ones, and ordered all the replacement rubber pieces. I feel I can safely say that if anyone is having sunroof problems, you can ask me and I'll try to help.

    As soon as I can afford it, I'll be getting new brake rotors. My brakes vibrate like they're warped. I remove the wheel, spin the rotor, and I can see a dark spot on both rotors where it's obviously been hitting the pads more/less than the rest of the disc.

    Plus, a question. Does anyone have an idea as to what could cause a harmonic resonance gently vibrating the entire car at 65mph+? I read it could probably be the motor mounts. I KNOW I need new motor mounts, shocks, and very obviously control arm bushings (they are still factory!). I had both flex discs and the drive shaft bearing (and housing) replaced about 6 months ago--didn't help (though they very obviously needed replacing anyways. They grounded me on the side of the interstate!).

    The car's had this harmonic resonance for at least the last 5 years, and I'm starting to think I might be able to do something about it.

    I love this forum, and most especially, my ugly, old, bone stock 202.
    94 C280, 250k miles, 1999-2011 (gone, never forgotten)
    CURRENT:
    744 Silver 99 C43 AMG, 260k miles, 2011-
    040 Black 98 C43 AMG, 190k miles, 2013-

  6. #31
    Not to sure what you mean, but sounds like it is probably the mounts.

    Try rotating your tires first and see if that helps.

    But yea, with 160k on the clock, and 11 yrs you could assume suspension parts are on the way out.

    Fix these nagging problems and you'll get another 160k no problem.

    Avoid the wiring harness issue and it will come back to bite you int the butt. Fried computer will cost you $$$$!

  7. #32
    Moderator Sulaco's Avatar
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    Werd.

    My front right shock finally started creaking and squeeking this week. I've known they've needed replacing for at least 3 years. My car rides like a Honda compared to my sister's '05 w203. At least it's comforting to know my car can ride almost as good once I get the shocks/motor mounts/control arm bushings replaced. Plus, those warped brake rotors really make the car feel like a piece of shit.

    Wiring harness will be replaced as soon as possible. I've decided I'm not bothering updating/replacing anything else on the engine until the harness can be afforded.

    Plus, I've always had 3 warped wheels. My car was in a minor wreck before I bought it. The trunk lid isn't original, the spare was warped beyond use, and 3 of the wheels on the car were warped enough to still use, but I've always been suspicious that they wouldn't always be that way. One of them cracked last summer (I replaced it). I'm always on the look-out for a good deal on some good condition OEM painted aluminum 8-spoke wheels. I just can't make myself put aftermarket wheels on it.

    Another 160k? Easily. I just suspect that with all the "restoration" I'm pumping into it now, at the end of that next 160k it won't need so much work (now that all the idiosyncrasies and kinks have been identified and attacked).
    94 C280, 250k miles, 1999-2011 (gone, never forgotten)
    CURRENT:
    744 Silver 99 C43 AMG, 260k miles, 2011-
    040 Black 98 C43 AMG, 190k miles, 2013-

  8. #33

    Unhappy

    As always, this site is most informative. I'm afraid to report that my beloved '96 M104 is suffering from disturbingly similar characteristics.

    Idle is uneven, drops down occasionally and shakes the car.
    At rpm's below 2500, especially when using the motor's torque (1/2 to full throttle) the engine definitely misfires, accompanied by the occasional backfire (I presume, it's a muffled bang).

    The good news: I work for an MB dealership.
    The bad news: They can't find the fault.

    My C280 has been hooked up to their diagnostic machines many times, and only shows an ABS pump low pressure warning. I know this to be a genuine problem as my ABS light says hello on hot days and the anti-lock DOESN'T work when that happens.

    Keeping in mind that I'm on the bottom end of Africa, with completely different-spec'd cars, it appears my car doesn't have a CEL or O2 sensors. Due to a lot of long-distance travel, the fluctuating octanes and absence of Unleaded in rural South Africa, my cats were removed about 3 months ago.
    The problems started about a month after that (after the 180k service), but the MB mechs swear blindly that can't be the problem. They're pointing towards coils, fuel pump, or wiring harness, and from past experience it appears that if your 202 has a full service history with MB (which mine does) they will foot the entire bill for a new wiring harness.
    The MAS has been in the back of my mind, and I'd like to keep it there until all other options have been exhausted.

    My car's going in again next week to see how it behaves when it's cold. I found the misfires more frequent when the engine is at operating temps, although she has stuttered once or twice while reversing out of my garage in the mornings.

    The only thing that doesn't add up is that my fuel consumption has drastically improved! But that's probably due to the sudden absense of the cats.

    Add a busted viscous coupling on the cooling fan, the abovementioned dying ABS pump, and rapidly procreating rattles on the interior, and you'll understand why I'm starting to look out for another car. Breaks my heart though, I adore my blue C280.
    1996 C280 - African Member #1

  9. #34
    Moderator Sulaco's Avatar
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    Shakes and rattles on the interior? Nothing a good old philips screwdriver and a day's careful tinkering can't fix. I did it to mine! Tightened up all the screws in the entire center console (not nearly as many as you'd think). Tightened up all the screws in the door panels (2 per door). Tightened up screws below dash and on kick panels...

    If you need any help, I'll gladly advise.

    Do you know if your car came with the biodegradable wiring harness or not? You can probably have the VIN run at your dealership and they'll know. I wouldn't consider anything else until that's resolved.

    But yeah, the frequent misfiring and sluggish performance on mine were almost completely cured by adding new OEM plugs. I'd like to replace the plug wires and connectors soon, but that's not a priority. My CEL hasn't been on in nearly 4 weeks now! It went from being on for 2 years straight to going off on its own (no, the bulb isn't dead).

    But the replacement of my wiring harness is priority ONE.

    Speaking of which, is anyone really sure of the position of the relay for the global window up/down feature (like when you lock the doors with the windows down, it rolls them up...)?
    94 C280, 250k miles, 1999-2011 (gone, never forgotten)
    CURRENT:
    744 Silver 99 C43 AMG, 260k miles, 2011-
    040 Black 98 C43 AMG, 190k miles, 2013-

  10. #35
    Update: my car was in the workshop for a few days and they tested everything again. No error codes.
    Not knowing what else to try, they upped the mixture.

    Problem's still there and she's happily gulping more fuel.:bored:
    1996 C280 - African Member #1

  11. #36
    Moderator Sulaco's Avatar
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    Any ideas on where a guy could score a wiring harness? And how much?
    94 C280, 250k miles, 1999-2011 (gone, never forgotten)
    CURRENT:
    744 Silver 99 C43 AMG, 260k miles, 2011-
    040 Black 98 C43 AMG, 190k miles, 2013-

  12. #37
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    http://www.mercedesshop.com and then click the Buy Parts tab at the top. Enter the MB part number under the special order parts search on the left hand side. They did have them for $579 a couple of months ago when I ordered mine. That is the best place to get the parts and they are pretty fast.


    Originally posted by Sulaco
    Any ideas on where a guy could score a wiring harness? And how much?

  13. #38
    Moderator Sulaco's Avatar
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    Hi Dex!
    94 C280, 250k miles, 1999-2011 (gone, never forgotten)
    CURRENT:
    744 Silver 99 C43 AMG, 260k miles, 2011-
    040 Black 98 C43 AMG, 190k miles, 2013-

  14. #39
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    Sulaco-

    One thing you may need to consider with your idling problem is you K&N filter with your new MAS. Now, many people will say K&N is a good product and will not cause MAS failure, and to a certain point I would agree. The problem with using this particular filter is that if there is excess oil on the filter, it could get onto your MAS sensor and cause it to fail. If I remember correctly, your MAS is located just upstream from your airbox, and your MAS could be really in harm's way.

    If you are looking for O2 sensors, I have listed a good resource in the Parts section. I recently bought 4 O2 sensors and a MAS for around $650 shipped. All Bosch. In addition, I might be able to get you a wiring harness for a good price. I'll have to contact my source about that one, but it is a really good price.

    As for all your other problems and such, I would suggest replacing things one at a time. Sounds like many of your OEM stuff is failing (most likely due to old age), so start there. It will be pricey but if you a DIY'er you can save some money.
    1998 C43
    1994 C280 (Retired)

    "Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication." - da Vinci

  15. #40
    Moderator Sulaco's Avatar
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    I replaced the K&N with a paper Mann filter, heh. I'd already had a hunch it was a bad thing to have K&N oils so close to my MAS.

    As far as I know, my O2 sensors are all original. Could they really be causing that much trouble? What benefits would I see if I replaced them both?

    I've also noticed something new in the last couple days. While sitting in gear at a stop, there seems to be random misfires. Sudden quiet drops in RPM and jerks in the torque. They end as soon as I kill the A/C or put it in neutral.
    94 C280, 250k miles, 1999-2011 (gone, never forgotten)
    CURRENT:
    744 Silver 99 C43 AMG, 260k miles, 2011-
    040 Black 98 C43 AMG, 190k miles, 2013-

  16. #41
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    O2 sensors can cause quite a bit of havoc. I don't recommend dumping money into replacing all your sensors until you replace the harness, especially if you've noticed the wires deteriorating already. It's a good bet that you will need O2 sensors anyways if they are original. Recommended that they are replaced every 100K miles.

  17. #42
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    Originally posted by Sulaco
    What benefits would I see if I replaced them both?
    Well, if they are faulty, then your air/fuel mixture will be off. So, if you fix it then your mixture would be correct, not running rich, and gas milage would be more higher.
    1998 C43
    1994 C280 (Retired)

    "Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication." - da Vinci

  18. #43

    Talking

    My Benz is healthy again!!

    After closer inspection it turns out that the surpressor (coil end?) on #6 cylinder was busted, and another one was on its way out.
    I tried all manner of driving styles on the way home, and not a single stutter or misfire. She idles very smoothly and runs like a dream!
    I'm very happy again, as this problem was slowly ruining the car for me.

    I've been told that an older 202 ('95, I believe) was turned down by DCSA for the free wiring harness upgrade because it was too old. Although not necessary (yet), the workshop will apply for my car as well. If I CAN get it as a freebie, that's a no-brainer.
    1996 C280 - African Member #1

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