alcohol injection for C230 kompressor

[Mercedes DIY]

lets see what you guys know about adding an alky injection kit to the M111 supercharger.

kits on Ebay run $180. but you can build your own kit and buy the individual parts like Pressure switch and injector nozzel for about $15 bux each. I already have wires and relays laying around and I can use the stock windsheild reservoir for the alcohol. For the pump.. I am thinking of twin junkyard windsheild washer reservoir pumps back to back.

the point in this mod is to reduce the air intake temp. my idea is to set the pressure switch to turn on at anything above 4lbs of boost.

this is a MUST if you are running a pulley. it will help reduce intake air temps and help with running lean. (alcohol helpts with that)

but what I am really wondering is.. if I will see any gains with a stock M45 running stock PSI.


here is a link to the kit on Ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WATER...temZ7969696205


let me know what you guys think

[rollinrealbig]

I hate not having a kompressor. no boost, no M45, no pulley kits, no IC, no alky inj. nuthing. just a simple 4-banger.

getting bored.

[jnenad16]

I had a water injection system on my supercharged BMW. it really helped with detonation running higher boost than I should have. mine system was a stage one Aquamist, though.
I looked into those ebay kits a few years ago and I was about to put one on my C280, but then I sold the car and the thoughts of that mod faded away.
also, the system should only be actuated at full throttle, because that is the ideal timing for it. I would highly recommend you research this mod before you venture into it. If you really want a system that actuated at part and full throttle, then Spearco system should be good for you. it has a microprocessor that reads boost and calculates the amount of water needed and automatically injects it. however, I've been looking for one a few years back and I had no luck at locating anyone selling those kits.

nenad

[Mercedes DIY]

having the system turn on at WOT is no doubt a good idea. if it cost the same I will go that route. but I have a boost gauge and I constantly monitor how hard I am pressing on the gas and try NOT to go into boost. also I would have a dummy light on my dash some place letting me know its on.

in terms of water injection, is that the same as alcohol injection?

I am confused why you would want one on an N\A c280.......

[Abuimad]

Originally posted by rollinrealbig
I hate not having a kompressor. no boost, no M45, no pulley kits, no IC, no alky inj. nuthing. just a simple 4-banger.

getting bored.

i think i actualy agree with you on that one lol...

[jnenad16]

Originally posted by Mercedes DIY
having the system turn on at WOT is no doubt a good idea. if it cost the same I will go that route. but I have a boost gauge and I constantly monitor how hard I am pressing on the gas and try NOT to go into boost. also I would have a dummy light on my dash some place letting me know its on.

in terms of water injection, is that the same as alcohol injection?

I am confused why you would want one on an N\A c280.......

water injection is the the base of these kits. some use a mixture of alcohol for a few reasons: to control detonation by enriching the mixture and adding some extra octanes, and to keep it from freezing during the winter months.
this system can be used on any gasoline engine, n/a or forced. the gains wont be the same, though.

nenad

[ncd]

Originally posted by jnenad16
water injection is the the base of these kits. some use a mixture of alcohol for a few reasons: to control detonation by enriching the mixture and adding some extra octanes, and to keep it from freezing during the winter months.
this system can be used on any gasoline engine, n/a or forced. the gains wont be the same, though.

nenad

I would of though squirting water in would be bad lol

i take it there coolant injectors seperate from the fuel injectors?

[Nitrogenbalance]

Going from no cooling at all my buddy was able to pick up 40 hp at the wheels using 50/50 methanol/H2O in his 210 E55. It's unlikely you will see those gains. He had the nozzel mist before the SC which I think is a good idea. It would keep the SC itself cooler by misting the rotors and keeping them cool. Rather than have the rotors heat up and cool the air after, you can kinda prevent the heat from even happening. Or prevent some of it should I say.

However, you will see some gains. I would look into meth/water. I believe methanol is cheaper than alcohol and it will raise your octane similar.

I would check out some companys like snow performance, aquamist, etc...aquamist has a new system that uses fuel injector pulse to keep the injection properly matched with the fuel or sometihng like that.

I've been told by a few that set this up that you will easily spend $1000 getting it perfect. You can do it much cheaper, what I would be comfortable with would most likely cost me around 1k.

[Powerslave]

Originally posted by rollinrealbig
I hate not having a kompressor. no boost, no M45, no pulley kits, no IC, no alky inj. nuthing. just a simple 4-banger.

getting bored.

sames here... hehe!:bunny:

[ncd]

hmm the aquamist systems sound worthy of a summers day project, but untill some one demonstates exactly how its interfaceing with a m45 or any S.C inlet, and how it gets its "Drive Signal".. I wont be parting with one penny..

would be good prep work for going bigger with boost/pulllys anyhow.

[Nitrogenbalance]

Originally posted by ncd
hmm the aquamist systems sound worthy of a summers day project, but untill some one demonstates exactly how its interfaceing with a m45 or any S.C inlet, and how it gets its "Drive Signal".. I wont be parting with one penny..

would be good prep work for going bigger with boost/pulllys anyhow.

You can find examples of these systems working with FI engine all day. You may not find many 202's with it, but the concept of an FI engine does vary much from car to car. Neither does the concept of chemical cooling. Run a google on this and you will most likely find many setups that would be great on a 202.

So your not going to be a pioneer for us 202'ers........

My girlfriend is picking up my system(most likely aquamist) for christmas this year, so I'll have an example for this come spring. I'm not sure if I want to use fuel or boost as the signal for mine yet. Being that I will be making 4-6lbs only, I need it to be accurate and precise.

One aspect that I "do" know is that I will mount the tank in the trunk and run lines parrallel to the fuel lines. I don't like the idea of an engine bay tank or taping into the windshield fluid tank either. The colder the H20 is the better, it can act like a sink and pick up alot of heat in the engine bay. Misting warm to hot water negates what is trying to be done. If I have to go engine bay I will most likely run it through a front mounted fluid cooler before it hits the nozzel.

[ncd]

Originally posted by Nitrogenbalance
You can find examples of these systems working with FI engine all day. You may not find many 202's with it, but the concept of an FI engine does vary much from car to car. Neither does the concept of chemical cooling. Run a google on this and you will most likely find many setups that would be great on a 202.

So your not going to be a pioneer for us 202'ers........

My girlfriend is picking up my system(most likely aquamist) for christmas this year, so I'll have an example for this come spring. I'm not sure if I want to use fuel or boost as the signal for mine yet. Being that I will be making 4-6lbs only, I need it to be accurate and precise.

One aspect that I "do" know is that I will mount the tank in the trunk and run lines parrallel to the fuel lines. I don't like the idea of an engine bay tank or taping into the windshield fluid tank either. The colder the H20 is the better, it can act like a sink and pick up alot of heat in the engine bay. Misting warm to hot water negates what is trying to be done. If I have to go engine bay I will most likely run it through a front mounted fluid cooler before it hits the nozzel.

yea, I did search on google not long after I posted and found this juicey diy site, http://users.frii.com/maphill/wi.html
check out his highly cool 2 stage switching
he has the setup in his trunk

[ncd]

Nitrogenbalance you know what that whole putting it in the boot thought, you thinking stainless steel? I'm thinking with a mobile home water chiller.. if their is such a thing

you seen the usb beverage chillers? hehe

[omeyhomey]

if you live in very humid environments (like houston TX) it is not really necessary.

[ncd]

Originally posted by omeyhomey
if you live in very humid environments (like houston TX) it is not really necessary.

kinda sucks for us though we gota put our nozzles just before the MAS .. ;/ thoses pipes look hideous..

kinda goes hand in hand with MAS rellocation in preperation for pullys

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Universal-8-Pi...QQcmdZViewItem

[Mercedes DIY]

well about the location of the reservoir tank. I think the stock windshield washer tank in its current location might not be that bad of a spot. it isn't on the exhaust side where the hotter part of the engine bay is.

[Nitrogenbalance]

Originally posted by Mercedes DIY
well about the location of the reservoir tank. I think the stock windshield washer tank in its current location might not be that bad of a spot. it isn't on the exhaust side where the hotter part of the engine bay is.

I've got an extra 4 cylinders on the other side...it's a 4.3V8.

The C43 engine bay along with the TTV12's is most likely one of MB's most heak soaked engine configs. Big motor+small space+ tight sheet metal+ skid plate+ insulation = alot of heat. It's like a an engine vault.

This is the reason for my concern on fluid temps used for cooling. The colder the starting temp the higher the capability to absorb heat. On a hot summer day, I can go into the mall shopping, and when I come back out rarely does my car dip below running temps. I usually pop the hood an inch or two to cool things off when parked in the summer. I have many passive cooling modes in my think tank.

About the H2O/meth. Yes, stainless lines are what you want. Methanol is flamable. I would want the highest quality lines keeping it from any posibility of spraying onto my exhaust manifolds or other super hot parts!!

As far as inline cooling goes, rather than a 12V fluid chiller, you could run a C02 fuel cooling block. It's small and could easily be run inline. A few simple fittings and it's done. I just wonder if the Co2 block would freeze the H20??? I know it works good for cooling fuel. Simple, the block gets frozen by the Co2 and the fluid runs through the block. This may be a good and simple idea. Maybe mounted right before the nozle so the misting is icy cold.