DLC location

[ncd]

any one know where to find the dlc on my car.. I dont have a flap under the steering wheel or dash on the drivers side.. where else could it be

[1995c280]

sure you do!

the one that benz's computers hook up to is under the hood on the passenger side under the black plastic panel. 38 pin circle connector.

the one under the driver's dash is a generic for shop/individuals to use. doesn't pull EVERY single code from the modules though but gets the job done! if you don't see the 16 pin connector is most likely came off from the clip and is sitting behind the driver's lower dash panel know meaning you have to remove it!

Jason

[ncd]

ok tnx.. ill take a look .. i tryed to remove it earlyer but gave up cause the ebreak is in the way and I figured surely this isnt convienient for mechs so it can be right!

I could get the ebreak to come apart the little circle pops out then the rubber is still attached to the metal and short of brute force ive nfi how to remove it..

[ncd]

another thing that is in the way is the bonet release as well -baffeled-

[xvvvz]

Since you said "bonnet", you may be from the UK which means things might be different but the OBD II 16 pin port on U.S. cars is on the other side of the steering wheel from where you described. It is under the dash and between the steering wheel and the center stack of the dash, not between the wheel and the door. Also, it is behind a little flip down door/panel.

Doug

[ncd]

yeah i think youve basically hit the nail on the head... yeh im in the uk, and after reading: http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/sh...ad.php?t=13016
i think its a major belly fl0p for eu 202's and puter luving.
well you got the star connection that looks like a giant midi port lol.. the whole sequence of conenctions would be like over 12" long! heh..
and 0 comfort for live testing.. oow! i wanted to try the the dynometer from digimoto.. this sucks a bit..

[ncd]

thinking about splicing my self into the K and L lines on the big connector and run it straight into too the ODBII box leaving it perminantly instated and giving the car a new serial port up front heheh.. it would make life easyer!

but not sure this might not be so easy.. that or I have no choice but to give up.

the other thing i was thinking is buy the big connection and couple to any old DLC i couldl find on some scraped vechile.. and just have it dangled from the engine bay and through the window..

some might say why not just get a big connector and have it only connected when you need it but this is all well and good but I doubt you can shut the hood/bonnet even iif you could youve now just left your diag port exposed to the elements

any advice..

[ncd]

""hm any one tryed it out on a uk 1999 202?
Am I correct in believing there is no L-Line, and the K lines is on pin #19 which is conflict with the U.S 202's that report sucess.. which use pin 1 & 3 for power/grnd and pin 4 and 15 for the K and the L lines..

any one want to clarify what do you loose for not having a L-line???
what the hell is this bullshit@! ""

this could be grounds to abandon her all together

[ncd]

Originally posted by ncd
""hm any one tryed it out on a uk

well
I think we can wave bye bye to digimoto, i think its elm only but it does have another option

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d..._promot_widget
== the only way.. oh & fancy doing some dyno / drag runs with your hood not properly shut?.. I mean common merc that was so un sporting of you Its not really "ON BOARD" if its in the engine bay surely.

honestly Im so pissed off about this whole thing .. and REALLY ANOYED that the level of piss poor information, lead me to the all the wrong awnsers. (not with regard to locating the DLC you guys rock)

Now that I can understand on a more primitive level what has happened I want to just punch the person resposible for letting the EU lag behind on adopting standards... that were in effect since 1995!
So Ive baught the wrong asshole device .. I think the ebay member knew full well that it only works on the NEWEST EU/UK mercs.
aviod the ELM devices there waste of space really.. yeah it would be nice to think you can get a little peice of happiness for £25 but dream on..

another thing that perplex's me is how the hell they were making the same mercedes car in the same year with two different OBD configurations, are they deliberatly trying to be assholes?.... as I understand it the WB202 == Built in germany and no where else ... unless under a different chassis number.
so what the hell was the backward thinking that involved making one inferior when they knew full well in less then 1 year the standard would be legal requirement in the destination country..

[xvvvz]

I think you guys would really enjoy reading this thread:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170...oft-7-4-a.html

And visiting this site:

http://www.whnet.com/4x4/diagnostic.html

Doug

[ncd]

Originally posted by xvvvz
I think you guys would really enjoy reading this thread:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170...oft-7-4-a.html

And visiting this site:

http://www.whnet.com/4x4/diagnostic.html

Doug

cheers.. Ive been scouring for info all day.. I would like to see a reasonable explination of the pin-out inside the 38 Pin connector, the thing I'm grappling with is if our K-line will report any thing and prehaps with the latest ELM readers after all, the only infomation out there is from some guy with a 500SL and I duno if the information is relevant.. it stipulates that there is indeed a K-LINE and it is on pin #19..
putting a multimeter on #19 and its chirping away with a low voltage..

Not sure if I should give up ? gues this is just more of a hacking escipade now .... and Im getting a carsoft based one anyway and

this shit is ghetto check it out..

i might have one last try .. but I kinda of know im wasting my time, but in my previous attempts the elm reader was not powering up.

it also sounds like from what ive read in the urls xvvw posted, you really want the more expensive car soft tool with the multiplexer .. or once again were busted back to our lego blocks as MB owners ;( even with the supposed right tool for the right job.

and for thoses that are curious.. the pin out I believe to be working is:

(prehaps only for certifiable iso cars)

16 PIN  ------------- 38 PIN
--------------------------------
#                      #
01 - GRND ->   01 - GRND
03 - BAT ->      16 - BAT/12v
07 - K-LiNE  -> 19 - KLINE
15 - L-LiNE  -> ???

[xvvvz]

ncd - I just sent you a PM.

[xvvvz]

Well... maybe cut and paste from the .pdf I was going to send you will work. I can't insert the graphics but it looks like the text might work:

1 Circuit 31 (ground) W12, W15 (electronics ground)
2 Voltage, circuit 87 or 15z
3 Voltage, terminal 30
4 EDS Electronic diesel system
4 IFI In-line fuel injection
4 DFI Electronic distributor-type fuel injection (Diesel)
4 HFM-SFI HFM sequential multiport fuel injection/ignition (hot-film engine management)
4 LH-SFI LH sequential multiport fuel injection system, engines 104, 119, engine 120 LHSFI
right
4 ME-SFI Motor electronics with sequential multiport fuel injection/ignition system (ME-SFI),
engine 119, engine 120 ME-SFI right
5 LH-SFI LH Sequential multiport fuel injection, left, engine 120
5 ME-SFI Motor electronics with sequential multiport fuel injection/ignition system (ME-SFI)
left, engine 120
6 ABS Anti-lock brake system
6 ETS Electronic traction support
6 ASR Acceleration slip regulation
6 ESP Electronic stability program
7 EA Electronic accelerator
7 ISC Idle speed control
7 CC Cruise control/idle speed control
8 BM Base module
8 BAS Brake assist
9 ASD Automatic locking differential, models 124, 129, 140
10 EATC Electronic automatic transmission control (5-speed
AT) (transmission 722.6)
10 ETC Electronic transmission control (transmission 722.6)
11 ADS Adaptive damping system
12 SPS Speed-sensitive power steering
13 TD speed signal (time division) (DI) (diesel) models 202,
210
13 TNA signal (gasoline) on LH-SFI
13 TN speed signal (DI/KSS) (gasoline) on HFM-SFI, MESFI
14 Lambda on/off ratio of LH-SFI engine 119, engine 120
LH-SFI, right
15 Lambda on/off ratio of LH-SFI left, engine 120
15 IC Instrument cluster
16 HEAT Automatic heater
16 (Tempmatic) A/C Air conditioning (Tempmatic)
16 (Automatic) A/C Air conditioning (Automatic)
17 DI Distributor ignition, engines 104, 119, engine 120, right
17 TD Speed signal (time division) (DI) (diesel) model 140
17 TN Speed signal (DI/KSS) (gasoline) on LH-SFI/model
202 HFM-SFI
18 DI Distributor ignition, engine 120, left
19 DM Diagnostic module I
20 PSE Pneumatic system equipment, model 140
multi-function control module, model 210
21 CF Convenience feature, model 140
21 RST Roadster soft top, model 129
22 RB Roll bar, model 129
23 ATA Anti-theft alarm
24-25 -
26 ASD Automatic locking differential, model 202
27 -
28 PTS Parktronic system, model 140
29 -
30 AB Airbag/emergency tensioning retractor
31 RCL Remote central locking
32 -
33 RD Radio Audio 10, Audio 30, Audio 30 APS and COMAND
with D2B
34 ICS Information and communication system
35 -
36 STH Stationary heater
36 HB Heater booster
37-38 -

[ncd]

man thanks!.. Now I can compare my sparsely populated 38 pin connector.. it doesnt even half of the items in the list.. I think it works out having 16 pins inside the 38 pin which I gues is telling us something prehaps ODB II or prehaps 1.
but thats where Im unsure, the ELM readers dont say they deal in ODB1 specific bussiness..
You would of thought it would be backward compatible.

stay tuned.

I think if it turns out that direct ODBII communication isnt possible, and if the Car side of things will blindly communicate with a ELM IC, I cant see why a low level driver couldnt be made to convert ELMs interpretation of MB's communication protocol "CS75" to REAL ODBII.. unless their is analog to digital conversions happening inside the the carsoft box's..

[ncd]

hmm I have just 14 Pins..
if you take out 3 for batt, voltage circut and ground.. 11 for ecu access.