hps sc install- plus tech help please read

[expo5.0]

i'll update this thread as i go through the preparation for and the install of the hps gen I kit on my car.

first off, background-

car has 99k on the clock and is basically caught up on maintanence- however, i'm going to do some basic things right now in order to get things prepared. I'll list what i'm thinking but please feel free to suggest anything else which you'd do prior to supercharger install-

spark plugs
transmission flush
fuel filter
cabin air filter
diff. fluid? (should i- if so how?)


so- who knows how much fluid and can recommend a place to buy the parts for the transmission flush/has a link to directions? i've done a bit of reading on this car and poked around under there and it looks simple enough.

who knows about the diff. fluid? should i do it? should i just be swapping to a better diff? i'm sure i can gain a lot of traction if the right parts are available...

lastly (for now), how can i fully defeat cruise control? can i remove the fuses for the system and not trigger some kind of a "limp" mode or anything like that? maybe a better diff would solve this enough that the "off" mode would be good enough as well.

thoughts and input on what to order please

-drew



btw, for those who missed my other threads. the plan is hps gen I kit right now and to get it running properly with that. then i will store it for the winter with the intention of adding crank pulley and meth injection in the spring.

[omeyhomey]

Hello Drew,

from experience don't go with platinum in these older motors, the best plugs are Bosch super coppers. you will need more powerful spark so I would recommend getting some 8.5mm core (or larger) magnacore wires, they really help smoothen out spark and make it more powerful, under boost applications the spark can actually be blown out if boost pressures are high enough.

i HIGHLY recommend upgrading your entire driveline to Royal Purple fluids, it will totally transform the car. For diff you will want to run 75w-90 "MaxGear", for the tranny you will want "MAXATF" (it meets all the highest cerfitication levels and is superior to redline). For the engine I would run a thicker weight oil since it will be under quite a bit of stress and its less suceptible, RP 20w-50 is all the protection you'd ever need. Also you can get new stock tranny filter at AZ autohaus.

yes now would be a good time for new fuel filter as well. I highly doubt you will need new fuel pump however, how would also be a good time to upgrade injectors b/c stock ones will probably not suffice. typically you want to go up roughly 4-6lbs in fuel rate at least when going to light boost FI applications. Remember its ALWAYS better to run too rich on FI than too lean.

Now would be a good time to address exhaust while you are at it too. just curious which model car is this again?

[expo5.0]

yeah, i just need to find a dealer for all the fluids. I'm impartial as far as the premium companies go, but if you say royal purple- why not?

it massively sucks searching for things like the wires and the plugs-

do i want one heat range colder with the plugs?

who carries the plugs and wires AND is smart enough to help me figure out what part numbers i need?

the kit is coming with a new fuel pump, but i'm thinking my stock pump is likely just as good if not better at this point. I think the one it comes with may be bosch. I'll likely just sell that.

my exhaust is still stock C43 with the resonator removed (y pipe in it's place). I can't afford to pick up any of the headers (nor do i actually know where to get them anyways right now). I don't know if it's worth doing much to it at this point other than waiting until i can afford headers? what's your opinion?

does anyone know how much fluid i need for the diff and the tranny?

-drew

[Denlasoul]

For tranny service, there is a DIY on mercedesshop.com's DIY's section. You will need 8 litres of fluid.

If you need Magnecore wires, I got a pretty good deal. PM me for information, got them for $155.50 shipped.

[expo5.0]

same as these?

http://www.ultrarev.com/manufacturer...ufacturerid=30

that would be a good deal!

i'm not familiar with that forum, but i'll go take a look.

Are there other things i should be addressing so far as "routine" maintainence/

[Denlasoul]

Yes 8.5mm wires. I did not see them on the site, but based on some of the other prices, they are comparable.

edit: check your motor mounts, lower control arm bushings, flex discs.

[expo5.0]

my motor mounts are "fine"

the price on that link was $175

do they only come in red with the 8.5mm?

[Denlasoul]

Originally posted by expo5.0
my motor mounts are "fine"

the price on that link was $175

do they only come in red with the 8.5mm?

AFAIK

[expo5.0]

so where do i order them from?

i want to get those here now-

I will do the plugs and wires along with the install of the sc initially

most other things which aren't necessary for the car to run (tranny, diff, etc. etc.) i will wait until i take it out of storage in the spring.

i'm sure by spring i'll have a LONG list of little projects- hopefully including brakes too...

[Nitrogenbalance]

I would go the copper plug route as well. I did. It is good thing with the increase in cylinder temps etc..The bosche plugs and the NGK's in copper are good. I went the NGK route as I couldn't find the right bosche part # for the coppers. Single tip is fine also. I also went the magancore route and I am very happy with this product as well. You must change these during isntall becuase from here on you will have to remove the SC to acess the coils and such. The wires are very short and close so one thing I would have liked to do is get a set of those DEI wire sleaves and throw them over the wires after install for protection as they have none.

For fluids I have to agree that royal purple stuff has grown on me and I honestly think my motor is more quiet with the RP than the thin mobil 1. I changed my diff fluid last year and it was a one arm job. Very easy, there should be a DIY on mbworld somewhere. You need a cheap hand pump $6.99 for the bottle and thats about it. The old fluid will look like crap at 99K so its worth a change. I recall it taking just under 2 quarts I think. remember to level the car off when draining the fluid to get it all out.

The tranny I had flushed at a shop with a Winn machine. Its really the best way to go as it doesn't simply drain the tranny but flushes it's fluid 1 for 1. Looks like a crappy DIY anyway. No fun.

Fuel filter and cabin are a quick easy fix as well. The fuel filter is easy to get to right behind the P side rear tire under a skid plate. Do this when the car is on the jack draining the diff fluild.

As far as fully disabling the the ESP(you said cruise control but I think you ment traction). You can simply disconnect the esp block thing in the engine bay. Cuts all ESP. I wouldn't do this though because your stability, braking, and everything will be off so its very dangerous should you get into trouble entering a corner or stoping quick. I would stick with the dash off option that allows a little wheel spin.

The best thing for the above issue is an LSD. You really can't switch the rear diff on this car without changing the tranny, TCU, and a few other things upstream of the rear end. It would be a headache and very $$$. The only LSD option for this pumpkin would be kleemann at $2200.00 I will go this route as it is the only damn option. Quaiffe doesn't work on this car. I've spent months figuring this out even discussing at length with Cory from Kleemann. Its honeslty the only option right now for the C43.

I read above about blowing the spark plugs out of the block. at 4-6pis with this system I wouldn't worry bout' it.


The green bosche injectors should be fine for the power we are trying to make. I've been assured by many that these are more than sufficient. One opportunity you have before install though is to have them cleaned, flow tested, and matched/blueprinted whatever they call it. I know a place that has a good turnaround for this and mails you back all the data along with the injectors when they are done.

The stock fuel pump worked out fine for me. A better pump will always help but it may not be something that equates to an HP increase it might just work easier supplying the needed pressure. GregC from mbworld has alot of interesting posts about the bosche pumps and what not. I'd search his posts.

I think that sums up most of your quesitons. If your like me you'll have many more to come.

[expo5.0]

thanks man-

the only thing i REALLY want right now is the complete parts list and installation instructions for the kit...

also, any pictures you have of places you strayed from those instructions (or details about it)

thanks

-drew

[expo5.0]

have full instructions- am missing some parts though, but nothing major.


new question-

has anyone used split second's products to tune the fuel curve based off the maf's readings?

[c280nz]

haha i was just reading about greddy e-manage, and apexi neo.
i better check out split second aswel
look at those two i mentioned also

[expo5.0]

will do-

i've been researching and talking to guys from the bimmer forums trying to gather data etc.- split second seems like the cheapest, best, option- but what do i know

[expo5.0]

i'm getting into the psc1-001 from split second as it is very cheap relatively and it may do all i need. I will post if that is the case or not-- my "tuner" and i agreed it will be best to start there and move onto possibly the greddy product (adds more control) or a complete standalone if this proves to be insufficient. however, if the psc1-001 is enough i'll have saved a lot of money and effort etc.



does anyone know the stock fuel injector and fuel pump specs?

I thought that would be common knowledge i could quickly find with a search, guess not...

[99C280Sport]

Sorry this is off topic but, Drew your PM box is full!

I texted you earlier today but I was in a bad service area so I am not completely sure it went through.

Just wanted to let you know I got the shifter trim piece out on Thursday so it should be to you very soon.

Also, just wondering if/when you got the ashtray and cupholder piece sent out so I can know when to expect it - you can reply via PM or text me if you'd like.

Thanks, and sorry for the hi-jack!

[c280nz]

my guess with the c43 your injectors would be around the
225-250cc mark x8

[expo5.0]

sorry- ya, it all went out. I didn't get to the place to ship until thursday afternoon though. Last week got crazy busy for me (and ya, 90% of my posts on here are from work... lol)

expect it thursday?

[99C280Sport]

Originally posted by expo5.0
sorry- ya, it all went out. I didn't get to the place to ship until thursday afternoon though. Last week got crazy busy for me (and ya, 90% of my posts on here are from work... lol)

expect it thursday?

No reason to be sorry, same happened to me last week too with school coming to and end. I'll make sure someone is here Thursday - did you do DHL again?


Thanks for everything so far, the wood looks great. I hope you are happy with the carbon fiber

[expo5.0]

i'm liking the carbon fiber, thanks

the fuel pump part numbers recommended for aftermarket suppliers match with my car, the 99 sl600, and the 99 e55. this seems like good news- if there was any headroom left with that pump with the sl600 then there should be enough for my fuel needs. I'll find out soon enough either way.

i'm still looking for injector specs though

[expo5.0]

so we used none of the HPS instructions

the install thus far has been VERY simple.

Changing the plugs and wires was much harder than the SC side of things.

It's ridiculous how stupid the HPS instructions are compared to what needs to be done- they make the easy stuff look awful hard and the harder stuff isn't included in them...

here are a couple pics-





and the wheels i'll actually be running- with HUGE tires on them that are way too tall (which makes them look not as good). Also, i will be refinishing them in graphite



I also added HID fogs-

[Nitrogenbalance]

Brother!!!

Looks good. See what I meant about the directions?? I used all types of wobble extensions and such to replace the plugs, it was a long job, still better than the HPS install for me though. I have an amsoil cone filter that you should buy too. I'll dig up the part number. They are very high quality and they make the perfect size that you can wedge down there. You do know that the MAF unit goes where you have the filter now right? The angle is strange so I had to use a 45 degree silicon elbow also to aim the filter down and not straight into the headlamp. I had to cut a little sheet metal to do this.

Looks great so far!! You go with the copper plugs and magnacores??

I can't wait for you to get this thing on the road. I just took mine off the road for the winter and destroyed my renntech front wheel on a pothole, I've been ignoring it for a week or so like it didn't happen...fender got destroyed also. Didn't even see it comming.

Originally posted by expo5.0
so we used none of the HPS instructions

the install thus far has been VERY simple.

Changing the plugs and wires was much harder than the SC side of things.

It's ridiculous how stupid the HPS instructions are compared to what needs to be done- they make the easy stuff look awful hard and the harder stuff isn't included in them...

here are a couple pics-





and the wheels i'll actually be running- with HUGE tires on them that are way too tall (which makes them look not as good). Also, i will be refinishing them in graphite



I also added HID fogs-

[expo5.0]

we're planning on cutting to piping to still fit the filter where it is now- i will probably upgrade the filter from that (checker pos) one after everything fits.

I have two of every piece of piping the kit comes with

thanks man

-drew

btw- can you draw the belt routing? i think i have the wrong length belt, but before we figure out the correct length custom i want to double check.

[expo5.0]

also, yes i have copper plugs and the magnecors on the car

i'd say the plugs wires took 3 hrs, but we were drinking pretty heavily too, lol.

one more thing too- what did you do at the back of the motor?

What piece is supposed to fit there? I have two copies of a metal piece that looks like it would almost fit (but they won't clear my firewall) OR it will fit if i use the stock plastic 90 degree elbow turned 45 degrees or so to the side- in order to do that i'll need a 4"-3.5" silicon reducer hose.

also, does the hps coolant reservoir have the temperature sensor probe or whatever it is in the bottom of it still? Can you snap some pics of it and/or try to let me know if it has a mercedes part number on it? I wasn't provided one and would really love to be able to find one.

thanks again

[Nitrogenbalance]

I've got the belt route drawn at home and I'll post it. The fender wreckage and bent wheel really have me ignoring my car right now.

Not sure what you mean about the back of the motor. The supplied HPS pipes had a 90degree elbow that bolts directly to the back of the intake manifol where the TB is. The TB(throttle body) mounts in front of the blower now.