Just received my C230K pulley

[John Jones Jr.]

It came this morning from Germany, total cost €60/$78, a bargain if my local machine shop can increase the diameter of the outer pulley. Fingers crossed.




I'll let you know how I get on.

[John Jones Jr.]

Right I've been in touch with one local machine shop, they can increase the diameter of the pulley, no problem there. Before they'll give me a price they want to know the exact percentage diameter increase I require. Now I understand different suppliers have over the years supplied different increased diameter crank pulleys, I've read about 14% & 17% increases and I think even bigger too.

Any suggestions on what increase I should specify?

[dokotela]

Good luck

[John Jones Jr.]

Good luck

Do you think I'll run into problems?

[dokotela]

The oem pulley has a harmonic damper which is very important for the smooth rotation of the crankshaft. How do you plan on achieving the same?

[John Jones Jr.]

Loooking at the OE crank pulley, it's just that a balanced weighted pulley - all metal (no rubber etc) & one piece too. Can't see how it could be considered a harmonic damper pulley like say a C240/C280 V6 has. Also I'm not planning on taking anything off the pulley, just adding to it and it would need to be balanced.

I am still missing something?

Here's one that just add's to the OE pulley, I presume that works?

http://www.international-speed-parts...kompressor-kit

[zmatt]

dont forget, you can also make your blower pulley smaller. Instead of getting a massive crank pulley get a bigger one and machine down the blower pulley at the same time. 1bar is easy to achieve that way.

[John Jones Jr.]

Zmatt, I understood but could very well be wrong that it was difficult to machine down the blower pulley due to the clutch unit and the pulley was reasonably small already?

Here's what I've been thinking - only thinking because I don't really know what the fcuk I'm doing. First off, I looked & considered the German one (see the attachment in my last post), but I have some reservations about the company & the pulley design, plus their circumference is 220mm from the original of 185mm so I'm not totally happy about buying it as that's an increase of 16% against the ASP pulley which has a 15% increase and I think I'd have a little more faith in ASP's sizing.

So, what I'm looking into, is having this other standard C230K c/pulley circumference increased by the local machine shop and have decided on a 15% increase as per the ASP pulley. Or, if the machine shop is looking for too much money I may have to take risk and buy the German pulley and see how that goes.

What do think etc?

[Pagz]

It will be interesting to see how you get on, Pretty confident my 230k pully had rubber.

Can you take a photo of the rear of the pully for us?

Either way solid or not you will change where the frequency cancels, it will work fine but you may experience more vibration at certain rpm.


edit:
here's is a photo of when I machined off the outer pully from the original balancer,note the rubber on the rear,it looks like the only part that is sprung by the rubber is the rear ring/wieght, the pully's are fixed.





I cut this one as I decided I wanted to reduce mass and run the standard n/a belt system for a turbo setup,Unfortunaley I did not torque to 200nm(bolts with 3 spring washers),so the pully came loose and broke the key. In the end I ran a crank pully for a C230 which may or may not have been ideal, due to a change in flywheel weight I always had some added vibration,especially being a 4 cylinder which suffers most from harmoics.

I may have missed this somewhere,How are you going about tuning this once fitted?

[zmatt]

Zmatt, I understood but could very well be wrong that it was difficult to machine down the blower pulley due to the clutch unit and the pulley was reasonably small already?

Here's what I've been thinking - only thinking because I don't really know what the fcuk I'm doing. First off, I looked & considered the German one (see the attachment in my last post), but I have some reservations about the company & the pulley design, plus their circumference is 220mm from the original of 185mm so I'm not totally happy about buying it as that's an increase of 16% against the ASP pulley which has a 14% increase and I think I'd have a little more faith in ASP's sizing.

So, what I'm looking into, is having this other standard C230K c/pulley circumference increased by the local machine shop and have decided on a 14% increase as per the ASP pulley. Or, if the machine shop is looking for too much money I may have to take risk and buy the German pulley and see how that goes.

What do think etc?

You can only machine it down so far, but SLK owners have had good luck with it. I don't have the link handy right now, but I remember a thread on MBworld about it. OP was able to get 1bar boost with the Kleeman crank pulley, a machine supercharger pulley and a ported supercharger.

[John Jones Jr.]

It will be interesting to see how you get on, Pretty confident my 230k pully had rubber.

Can you take a photo of the rear of the pully for us?

Either way solid or not you will change where the frequency cancels, it will work fine but you may experience more vibration at certain rpm.


edit:
here's is a photo of when I machined off the outer pully from the original balancer,note the rubber on the rear,it looks like the only part that is sprung by the rubber is the rear ring/wieght, the pully's are fixed.





I cut this one as I decided I wanted to reduce mass and run the standard n/a belt system for a turbo setup,Unfortunaley I did not torque to 200nm(bolts with 3 spring washers),so the pully came loose and broke the key. In the end I ran a crank pully for a C230 which may or may not have been ideal, due to a change in flywheel weight I always had some added vibration,especially being a 4 cylinder which suffers most from harmoics.

I may have missed this somewhere,How are you going about tuning this once fitted?

Pagz, thanks for your input. I just looked and inspected the rear of the pulley and indeed it has a rubber strip around the inner circumference, so it is a harmonic damper/pulley and I was incorrect in thinking it wasn't. Both you & Dokotela are 100% correct.

Since may plan is to add to the pulley and then get it balanced I wondering will the pulley be out much from a harmonic perspective, I note there is a 280-310 Hz stamp on it so maybe there's some leeway? Is the ASP pulley harmonic? I'd have my doubts.

[Mike51809]

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170...ton-m62-s.html

Theres that link

[John Jones Jr.]

Great stuff Mike, thanks.

[John Jones Jr.]

Right, now I 'm thinking the only correct way of upping the boost pressure is to buy the ASP pulley since it's harmonic one to match the engine. I don't want to mess about with adding weight and increasing the circumference too by either bolting on a machine shop over size outer pulley or by buying the German cheap job. Of course if someone can tell me that doing either of the above won't affect the harmonics I'd still then consider it. Comments greatly received.

The other route to upping the boost which I very much like, is as Zmatt mentioned: ''dont forget, you can also make your blower pulley smaller''. Now this has got my attention as it seems it's o.k. to machine down (judging by the link Mike posted on the SLK project) the S/c pulley from 94mm to 87mm and importantly still keep the clutch unit. Really this seems a great way to go especially from a cost point (as I'm on a very limited budget).

The SLK project, the owner has stated that this:

Stock : 7psi
Plus ASP: 10psi
ASP plus 87mm S/c pulley: 14psi

Now, I am correct in reading the above as saying a smaller 87mm S/c will generate on it own an extra 4psi bringing the boost to 11psi? It looks that way but is it? As the SLK project car was never tested with just the smaller S/c pulley on it's own. What I'm getting at is: the 14psi is generated with both the ASP & smaller S/c pulley combined, I wondering if the 87mm worth 4psi on it's own? Again all views, comments etc greatly received.

[zmatt]

Just remember you have to port your SC to do 14psi. Stock it isn't efficient enough and will just blow hot air.

[John Jones Jr.]

Just remember you have to port your SC to do 14psi. Stock it isn't efficient enough and will just blow hot air.

Yes Zmatt, so I understand but I'm not looking to get to the magic 1bar or so. I'd be very happy with 10 or 11psi, thus my interest in a machined S/c pulley only or larger crank pulley/damper.

[zmatt]

Ah ok

[John Jones Jr.]

I've just ordered this:


http://www.international-speed-parts...oder-230k.html

Hope I've not wasted a load of cash......

[KrumB]

Hi,

My engine pulley is custom made (220mm dia) and it's about 3-4mm away from the fan pulley.
The aluminum ring is surprisingly light.

Below is some more info.
http://mercedesdata.wordpress.com/

[John Jones Jr.]

Received my modified outer crank pulley back from the machine shop. The grub screws that were supplied only locked/pressed against the original crank damper/puller rather than screwing into it. Instead of the screws there's now bolts going thru both, original damper drilled & tapped plus some Locktite on the new bolts.

[KrumB]

Good! You'll be more than happy when you smack the throttle!

[John Jones Jr.]

K-B, have you driven your car with just the over sized crank pulley?

[Pagz]

Received my modified outer crank pulley back from the machine shop. The grub screws that were supplied only locked/pressed against the original crank damper/puller rather than screwing into it. Instead of the screws there's now bolts going thru both, original damper drilled & tapped plus some Locktite on the new bolts.

Excellent, Im really glad you replaced the grub screws with something more substantial!.

Do you have any plans on tuning or dynoing straight after install?

Cheers

[KrumB]

Hi J,
Yes I have and the effect is WOW. )
Even without remap and everything .....

[John Jones Jr.]

Excellent, Im really glad you replaced the grub screws with something more substantial!.

Do you have any plans on tuning or dynoing straight after install?

Cheers

Good to hear from you Pagz.

I've no plans at all just yet & I'm needing advise etc. Where the car is located (I use something else daily, a Honda Accord Vtec YO! ) I've no access to anybody with a rolling road and no one doing ECU remaps. Also I've no real idea what the AFR will be with this 8.4% over sized pulley. In other words I don't know what I'm doing

I've posed a few question on another thread (M5 MAF) for Dok, re: MAF, FP & Plugs as I just want to play things safe due to my concern (possibly unjustified) about running the engine too lean, I really don't want to get into engine detonation problems especially if I can prevent it before using this new pulley.

And comments, advise or tips greatly received.

Thanks in advance.